Hestia Brussels Sprouts


Hestia Brussels Sprouts

(93 days) F-1 hybrid. If you have trouble growing decent brussels sprouts, here at last is a variety that is early and easy. Only the second brussels sprouts variety ever to win an All-America award (2015), Hestia was named for the Greek goddess of hearth and home. Though the award was for the Southeast and Mountain/Southwest regions, Hestia proved extremely well-adapted to the Northeast where it thrived in CR’s 2015 plots. Also claims the unusual distinction of both ripening early and holding its quality on the 24–30" tall plants. It doesn’t succumb easily to disease. Develops higher sugars than most sprouts in warmer weather, making for succulent eating. A great variety to start the season, its 1" sprouts are medium size. Tested negative for BR and BL.

3334 Hestia
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A: 0.25g for $3.70  
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Additional Information

Brussels Sprouts

Brassica oleracea (gemmifera group)

~5,000 seeds/oz; 175 seeds/g.

Culture: Fussy like cauliflower and requires a long season. Start indoors no later than early April and transplant into very fertile soil. Around Sept 1, top the plants. When I experimented by topping some and leaving others, the difference was dramatic. Within two weeks the topped plants were putting all their energy into making sprouts while the untopped plants continued to shoot up more foliage and made only miniscule sprouts. Very hardy, improved by frost and can be harvested past the first snowfall.


Days to maturity are from direct seeding. Subtract 20 days from date of transplanting.

Note: We cannot ship packets greater than ½ oz. (14 grams) of any Brassica into the Willamette Valley. The State of Oregon prohibits shipping any commercial quantity of untreated Brassica, Raphanus or Sinapis because of a quarantine to control Blackleg.

Culture: Hardy. Require warm temperatures to germinate (68-86° ideal) but need 60s during seedling stage for optimal growth; higher temperatures make seedlings leggy. Heavy feeders; for best growth, need regular moisture and 2–3' spacing. Have done well for us succeeding onions and garlic in beds. Cauliflower and broccoli are damaged by hard frosts, especially in spring.

Young broccoli sproutlings make good microgreens.


  • BR: Black Rot
  • BS: Bacterial Speck
  • DM: Downy Mildew
  • FY: Fusarium Yellows
  • TB: Tipburn
  • WR: White Rust

Pests & diseases: Major pests: Cabbage Looper, Diamondback Moth, Imported Cabbageworm
Cultural controls: control cabbage-family weeds near crop fields, till under crop debris of early-season brassicas after harvest.
Materials: Spinosad, Bt.

Pest: Flea Beetle
Cultural controls: floating row covers, mulch with straw, time plantings for fall harvested crops only, crop rotation, perimeter trap cropping.
Materials: Spinosad, PyGanic.

Pest: Cabbage Root Maggot
Cultural controls: time planting to avoid first hatching, use row covers, control weeds.

Major diseases: Black Rot, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Blackleg, Club Root, Downy Milldew, White Mold
Cultural controls: avoid transplanting plants with yellow leaves or v-shaped lesions, crop rotation, destroy crop debris after harvest, avoid overhead irrigation, control weeds, allow for good air movement.
Materials: Actinovate, copper compounds may help for some of these diseases.